Amarok 2.0TDI 2015 - Coolant pump B control "circuit open"

[Ricardo_Junior]

Hi all,
I am strugling to find the root of the problem with my Amarok 2015 TDI 2.0, a fault comes on over 3x times, coolant pump B control "circuit open", repeated fuse failure and the engine cut off.
yesterday I was driving back home and the engine cut off and didnt started anymore, fault logged Coolant pump B control "circuit open"
last time this happened was just a micro 5amps fuse, i did replace and the car back to life.

someone have alreade experienced this issue? I have no idea why this still happening...


thanks guys!

 

[jnrdavo]

shorts are normally something doing, or a short, or controller issue.

If its blowing a fuse, then something is overloading the circuit..

here's some help from the web..

Since the fuse is blowing, it means the circuit is drawing more than 5 amps, which is a classic sign of a short to ground or a failed component with an internal short.
Here is a breakdown of the likely causes and the steps you or your mechanic should take to diagnose the problem:


Probable Causes for "Coolant Pump B Control Circuit Open" and Fuse Failure
The "Coolant Pump B" in a VW Amarok TDI 2.0 is often an auxiliary electric coolant pump (sometimes called V50 or V188, depending on the engine code and specific system) used for cooling the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system or the turbocharger after the engine is shut off.

Faulty Coolant Pump B Itself (Most Likely):
The electric motor inside the pump can fail internally, leading to an internal short circuit. This short causes it to draw massive current, immediately blowing the fuse. When the fuse is blown, the control module sees the "open circuit" fault.
Test: Disconnect the pump connector. Replace the fuse. If the fuse does not blow with the pump disconnected, the pump is the definitive cause and needs replacement.

Short Circuit in the Wiring Harness:
The wiring leading to the Coolant Pump B could be chafed, pinched, or damaged, causing the positive wire to short directly to the vehicle chassis (ground).

Test: Visually inspect the wiring from the fuse box to the pump for any signs of damage. Use a multimeter to check the resistance between the pump's power wire terminal and a good ground point (with the pump disconnected). If the resistance is very low (close to 0 \ \Omega), you have a short in the harness.

Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM) / Relay (Less Likely but Possible):

The control unit or a relay that manages the pump's power could be internally shorted, though the fuse is usually there to protect the wiring and the module from this, assuming the module itself doesn't short internally and cause the fuse to blow. This is usually ruled out after checking the pump and wiring



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